Do-it-yourself Boat cleaning tips and tricks
Some tips I have discovered:
#1) If you use ‘cleaner wax’ or even more aggressive ‘restorer & wax’ the wax does not last very long. Cleaner Wax allows you to remove the white chalky oxidation and wax in one step. It does work but you need to re-wax the boat very soon after. If you keep your boat in an uncovered slip this would be about a month later.
#2) If you use the non-skid deck cleaner there is no method of rinsing it off without the water running down the hull. As soon as this stuff touches the regular part of the fiberglass the wax is gone. So I recommend you use this type of product only just before you are going to re-wax the boat. It does a great job of cleaning the non-skid, far better then hours and hours of scrubbing.
#3) Mr. Clean magic erasers. Use this to clean marks off all sorts of stuff. On the vinyl seats I first wipe the seats with a wet rag and mild soapy water. Then I rub the vinyl with wet “Mr. Clean magic erasers” then I spray on a vinyl protector and wipe with a cotton cloth.
#4) Isinglass, the see-thru part of the canvas top. Forget Windex, Plexus, etc. Grab some Lemon pledge. This will clean and wax the isinglass at the same time. It also hides small scratches.
#5) Windshield wiper. If your windshield wiper is a different size then the ones sold at every gas station, etc, the blades are wider then the replacement blades you see, you have Ford “L-series” Semi wiper blades. You can find them at truck service centers.
#6) Yellow discoloration at the water line. On-Off will remove the yellow/brown discoloration of your hull. Warning – your bottom paint will turn green and it will ruin the paint on your trailer. If you have bottom paint I suggest you use this product when in the boat is in the water. I was told “Lime-Away gel” works great too but have not tried myself.
#7) Got oil stains? Try BRAKE CLEANER.
Showing posts with label Marine safety. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Marine safety. Show all posts
Wednesday, April 25, 2007
Monday, April 09, 2007
Boating slang glossary
I’ve come across a variety of boating glossaries. Some are serious and some are only for humor.
Missing is a glossary that includes real world slang. This would be actual words boaters use yet do not appear in traditional boating glossaries.
I put together the below boating slang glossary.
Blowboater - this is a power boater talking derogatory about sail boaters, referring to the sails. Also see Snailboater.
Boataholic – a person who is passionate about boating.
Boating Dollars - money exclusively stashed away for boating related expenses.
Canboat - this is a power boater talking derogatory about pontoon boaters, referring to the aluminum pontoons that resemble beer cans.
Coasties – referring to the United States Coast Guard, or any water law enforcement member who has served or is serving.
Deadheads (also called sinker logs or snags) – a submerged log causing a serious hazard. Impact at a high speed with a deadhead can punch a hole in a large boat or destroy a small one.
Five By Five, or Five By - Means your radio is load and clear. The first numerical value (1-5) states the strength of your signal, the second numerical value (1-5) states the clarity of your signal.
Footitus – a desire to get a larger boat.
GoFast or GoFast/GoLoud – refers to boats built for speed. These boats are often very loud.
Oilburner – a boat with a Diesel engine.
On the hard - has two meanings. Those that don't know how to park boat in a slip properly and those who are having work done on the boat.
On the hook – a boat that is anchored.
Poleboarder – a term that a kitesurfer uses for windsurfers (like power vs sail boats)
Powerlandar – using your engine to drive onto your trailer.
Sawyers – fallen trees that are still floating. A serious boating hazard. Similar to Deadheads however the log would still be floating.
Smiles per Gallons - regardless of cost, enjoying boating.
Snailboater - this is a power boater talking derogatory about sail boaters, referring to the sails. Also see Blowboater
Soup – another term for fog.
Splash – putting your boat in the water.
Stinkpot –this is a sail boater talking derogatory about gas power boaters, referring to the engine smell.
Velcrumbs - the unwanted items that sticks to velcro
Water gnats – derogatory term for personal water craft, wave runners or jet ski’s.
Yarditus – same as footitus but looking to move up to a much larger boat.
Sawyers – fallen trees that are still floating. A serious boating hazard. Similar to Deadheads.
W0X0F - Pronounced wox-off. It means that you are fogged in Acronym W = weather 0 = 1st zero means you can not see horizontally X = obscured visibility 0 = 2nd zero means you can not see vertically F = Fog
Missing is a glossary that includes real world slang. This would be actual words boaters use yet do not appear in traditional boating glossaries.
I put together the below boating slang glossary.
Blowboater - this is a power boater talking derogatory about sail boaters, referring to the sails. Also see Snailboater.
Boataholic – a person who is passionate about boating.
Boating Dollars - money exclusively stashed away for boating related expenses.
Canboat - this is a power boater talking derogatory about pontoon boaters, referring to the aluminum pontoons that resemble beer cans.
Coasties – referring to the United States Coast Guard, or any water law enforcement member who has served or is serving.
Deadheads (also called sinker logs or snags) – a submerged log causing a serious hazard. Impact at a high speed with a deadhead can punch a hole in a large boat or destroy a small one.
Five By Five, or Five By - Means your radio is load and clear. The first numerical value (1-5) states the strength of your signal, the second numerical value (1-5) states the clarity of your signal.
Footitus – a desire to get a larger boat.
GoFast or GoFast/GoLoud – refers to boats built for speed. These boats are often very loud.
Oilburner – a boat with a Diesel engine.
On the hard - has two meanings. Those that don't know how to park boat in a slip properly and those who are having work done on the boat.
On the hook – a boat that is anchored.
Poleboarder – a term that a kitesurfer uses for windsurfers (like power vs sail boats)
Powerlandar – using your engine to drive onto your trailer.
Sawyers – fallen trees that are still floating. A serious boating hazard. Similar to Deadheads however the log would still be floating.
Smiles per Gallons - regardless of cost, enjoying boating.
Snailboater - this is a power boater talking derogatory about sail boaters, referring to the sails. Also see Blowboater
Soup – another term for fog.
Splash – putting your boat in the water.
Stinkpot –this is a sail boater talking derogatory about gas power boaters, referring to the engine smell.
Velcrumbs - the unwanted items that sticks to velcro
Water gnats – derogatory term for personal water craft, wave runners or jet ski’s.
Yarditus – same as footitus but looking to move up to a much larger boat.
Sawyers – fallen trees that are still floating. A serious boating hazard. Similar to Deadheads.
W0X0F - Pronounced wox-off. It means that you are fogged in Acronym W = weather 0 = 1st zero means you can not see horizontally X = obscured visibility 0 = 2nd zero means you can not see vertically F = Fog
Saturday, April 07, 2007
Check the dates on your flairs and check your safety equipment
1 in 4 boaters that requested a voluntary vessel safety inspection failed to meet the minimum legally required safety requirements. The most common reason for failing the inspection is expired flairs.
If you fail the voluntary vessel safety inspection no citations will be given. However they will supply you with a copy of the evaluation so you may follow some of the suggestions given.
Passing the inspections will be able to display a distinctive VSC decal. This does not exempt you from law enforcement boarding, but you can be prepared to make this a positive encounter.
You can also request the free inspection online here http://safetyseal.net/
To perform a self-examination please follow the below guide.
Item 1 - Display of Numbers:
The boat’s registration number must be permanently attached to each side of the forward half of the boat They must be plain, vertical, block characters, not less than three (3) inches high, and in a color contrasting with the background. A space or hyphen must separate the letters from the numbers. Place State tax sticker according to State policy.(e.g. WS 4776 GT or WS-4776-GT)
Item 2 - Registration / Documentation:
Registration or Documentation papers must be on board and available. Documentation numbers must be permanently marked on a visible part of the interior structure. The documented boat’s name and hailing port must be displayed on the exterior hull in letters not less than 4 inches in height. To be documented a boat must be 5 net tons or greater.
Item 3 - Personal Flotation Devices (PFD):
Acceptable PFDs (also known as Life Jackets) must be U.S. Coast Guard approved, in good serviceable condition, and of suitable size for the each person on the boat. Children must have properly fitted PFDs designed for children. Wearable PFDs shall be "readily accessible." Throwable devices shall be "immediately available." PFDs shall NOT be stored in unopened plastic packaging. For Personal Watercraft riders, the PFD must be worn and indicate an impact rating. Boats 16 Feet or longer, must also have one Type IV.Item 4 - Visual Distress Signals (VDS):
Recreational boats 16 feet and over used on coastal waters or the Great Lakes are required to carry a minimum of either 1) three day and three night pyrotechnic devices, 2) one day non-pyrotechnic device (flag) and one night non-pyrotechnic device (auto SOS light) or 3) a combination of 1) and 2). Recreational boats less than 16 feet on coastal waters or the Great Lakes need only carry night visual distress signals when operating from sunset to sunrise.It is recommended, but not required, that boats operating on inland waters should have some means of making a suitable day and night distress signal. The number and type of signals is best judged by considering conditions under which the boat will be operating. Alternatives to pyrotechnic devices (flares) include:
Night Day
Strobe light Signal mirror
Flashlight Red or orange flags
Lantern Hand signals
Special insert: Check the expiration date on your flairs. If you need to purchase new flairs please check the dates on the flairs you are purchasing.
Flairs may work past their expiration date however to meet the U.S Coast Guard requirements the flairs that you are required to carry must not have exceeded the expiration date on the label.
I have experienced shopping for flairs at retail stores where the inventory was already close to the date of expiration.
Flairs may work past their expiration date however to meet the U.S Coast Guard requirements the flairs that you are required to carry must not have exceeded the expiration date on the label.
I have experienced shopping for flairs at retail stores where the inventory was already close to the date of expiration.
Item 5 - Fire Extinguishers:
Fire extinguishers are required if one of the following conditions exists: (1) Inboard engine(s); (2) Closed compartments that store portable fuel tanks; (3) Double bottom hulls not completely sealed or not completely filled with flotation materials (4) Closed living space (5) Closed stowage compartments that contain flammable materials or (6) Permanently installed fuel tanks NOTE: Fire extinguishers must be readily accessible and verified as serviceable.
Minimum number of extinguishers required
Boat Length No Fixed System With Fixed System
Less than 26’ one B-1 none
26’ to less than 40’ two B-1 or one B-2 one B-1
40’ to 65’ three B-1 or
one B-1 & one B-2 two B-1 or
one B-2
Item 6 - Ventilation:
Boats with gasoline engines in closed compartments, built after 1 August 1980 must have a powered ventilation system. Those built prior to that date must have natural or powered ventilation.
Boats with closed fuel tank compartments built after 1 August 1978 must meet requirements by displaying a "certificate of compliance." Boats built before that date must have either natural or powered ventilation in the fuel tank compartment.
Item 7 - Backfire Flame Control:
All gasoline powered inboard/outboard or inboard motor boats must be equipped with an approved backfire flame control device.
Item 8 - Sound Producing Devices / Bell:
To comply with Navigation Rules and for distress signaling purposes all boats must carry a sound producing device (whistle, horn, siren, etc.) capable of a 4-second blast audible for ½ mile. Boats larger than 39.4 ft. are also required to have a bell (see Navigation Rules.) Under a recent change, a vessel 12 meters (39.4 ft) to less than 20 meters (65 ft) is no longer required to carry a bell on board. This applies ONLY to those vessels operating in International Waters. International waters for the purposes of the Navigational Rules are those waters seaward of the Line of Demarcation. For those vessels operating in Inland Waters, a bell is STILL REQUIRED.
Item 9 - Navigation Lights:
All boats must be able to display navigation lights between sunset and sunrise and in conditions of reduced visibility. Boats 16 feet or more in length must have properly installed, working navigation lights and an all-around anchor light capable of being lit independently from the red/green/white "running" lights.
Item 10 - Pollution Placard:
Boats 26 feet and over with a machinery compartment must display an oily waste "pollution" placard.
Item 11 - MARPOL Trash Placard:
Boats 26 feet and over in length must display a "MARPOL" trash placard. Boats 40 feet and over must also display a written trash disposal plan.
Item 12 - Marine Sanitation Devices:
Any installed toilet must be a Coast Guard approved device. Overboard discharge outlets must be capable of being sealed.
Item 13 - Navigation Rules:
Boats 39.4 feet and over must have on board a current copy of the Navigation Rules.
Item 14 - State and/ or Local Requirements:
These requirements must be met before the "Vessel Safety Check" decal can be awarded. A boat must meet the requirements of the state in which it is being examined.
Contact your local marine law enforcement agency.
Item 15 - Overall Vessel condition:
As it applies to this Vessel. Including, but not limited to:
a. Deck free of hazards and clean bilge:
The boat must be free from fire hazards, in good overall condition, with bilges reasonably clean and visible hull structure generally sound. The use of automobile parts on boat engines is not acceptable. The engine horsepower must not exceed that shown on the capacity plate.
b. Safe Electrical and Fuel Systems:
The electrical system - Must be protected by fuses or manual reset circuit breakers. Switches and fuse panels must be protected from rain or water spray. Wiring must be in good condition, properly installed and with no exposed areas or deteriorated insulation. Batteries must be secured and terminals covered to prevent accidental arcing.. If installed, self-circling or kill switch mechanism must be in proper working order. All PWCs require an operating self circling or kill switch mechanism.
Fuel Systems - Portable fuel tanks (normally 7 gallon capacity or less) must be constructed of non-breakable material and free of corrosion and leaks. All vents must be capable of being closed. The tank must be secured and have a vapor-tight, leak-proof cap. Each permanent fuel tank must be properly ventilated.
c. Safe Galley and Heating Systems:
System and fuel tanks must be properly secured with no flammable materials nearby.
Source http://safetyseal.net/what_is_vsc.asp
Monday, March 19, 2007
Safely crossing big water on a small budget
Safely crossing big water on a small budget
I recently had a friend ask me for advice about taking his single engine cuddy cabin boat away from the coast about 25 to 30 miles. My recommendation to him was to not do this is such a small single engine craft however he is determined.
Given that talking him out of it was not going to happened and knowing that budget is a consideration I put together my advice for the above described situation. This would also apply to Great Lake crossing as well. I did not want him to become a statistic.
Again, cost is a significant factor so given the budget limitations I offer these suggestions for crossing big water on a small budget.
1 Education & training
2 Inspection
3 Planning
4 Safety equipment
5 Checking the weather
6 Wearing your life jacket
#1) Education / training Cost $0. You can take courses that cost money however they tend to be very economical. Come to think of it, taking the course is good advice for all boaters.
Boating classes are offered by the coast guard auxiliary, the local power squadron, the DNR and you can also take the boating safety course FREE online here http://www.boatingbasicsonline.com/
If you take the final exam there is a fee of $10. Upon passing this course you will get a certificate / wallet card. Many insurance companies give a discount upon providing them documentation that you successfully completed this course.
#2) Get a free vessel safety inspection. Cost $0. Like the above boating class, this should be done for all boaters. You contact the local coast guard auxiliary or the local power squadron and if you are launched they may offer coming to you to perform the inspection. Upon passing this inspection you will get a vessel decal to display on your boat. One place you can go to sigh up for this free inspection is here: http://safetyseal.net/
#3) File a float plan Cost $0. A float plan is a written document that includes a description of your boat and where you plan to go and when you plan to return. You leave this with a responsible person and check in with them as agreed. If you do not check in at the agreed time and can not reach you they contact the authorities and provide the information in the form.
Although there is no required from you must use the coast guard has made one you can download for free. You can download the form for free here http://floatplan.uscgaux.info/download/USCGFloatPlan.pdf
#4) Have the proper safety gear. Above the safety equipment required by law and reviewed in the free vessel safety inspection you will be in a higher risk activity. Because of this I have assembled the below risk.
A) Budget Life Raft - Assuming you are on a tight budget and have no paying passengers you can save money by purchasing a NON-USCG/SOLAS rated one. A 6-preson Valise (soft bag) Revere brand Cost $1,600. It will be 29” x 12” x 15.5”
This life raft is the size of a slightly large duffel bag, 29” x 12” x 15.5” and it has the actual life raft + CO-2 inflation system plus a equipment pack containing:
• 3 Red Hand Flares
• 1 Red Parachute Flare
• Bailer
• Signal Mirror
• Water Tight Flashlight
• Extra Flashlight Batteries
• Floating Knife
• Rescue Throwing Quoit
• Sponges
• Paddles
• Seasick Tablets
• Repair Kit
Using the buddy system, meaning you boat with other boats at all times can also work with or instead of a life raft however you must share the same schedule and be willing to mirror your boating movement.
B) PLB EPIRB GPS. This is a long acronym. It stand for (PLB) Personal Locator Beacon (EPIRB) Emergency Position-Indicating Radio Beacons with internal (GPS) Global Positioning System. This device allows you to alert authorities that you need help and lets them know your location. Read the owners manual and register the product.
Keep this on your lifejacket you are wearing or in your ditch bag. The cost and size has come way down. A personal Locating Beacon or PLB with built in GPS runs about $550-$600. Consider the ACR 406 GPS I/O EPIRB or MCMURCO Fastfind 406 PLB with GPS.
Cost $600.
C) Hand held VHF in addition to the main 25 watt. Cost $100. Use marine band radios instead of commercial cell phones, which have limited coverage and are unreliable when out of sight of land. Get one that is waterproof and can take standard batteries and carry an additional set of batteries. A budget handheld waterproof VHF is the Uniten Atalntis 250 or cobra MR HH90 or Standard Horizon HX270S.
D) Floating ditch bag. A small ACR RepidDitch is $50. 19” x 15” x 7” Keep your safety gear in here and keep it in a spot you can grab easily. I recommend filling the bag with your PLB (unless you are wearing it, which is even better), your handheld VHF and spare batteries, your distress signaling devices (flares) and a first aid kit.
#5) Check the weather forecast early and often. Although you can spend thousands of dollars on sophisticated equipment you can get this information free via the VHF radio on the weather channels. Cost $0. If the weather is not favorable the trip needs to be delayed.
#6) I have saved the most important for last. Wear your life jacket. Cost of not leaving the life jacket stored = $0. Epically if anything goes array be it bad weather or a malfunction. They make life vests like the Type V that are inflatable so you can wear them without movement restrictions. A Type V vest must be worn to be counted as one of your onboard life vests.
So there you have it. The six most important items to reduce the risk to help you safely cross big water on a small budget.
This information was prepared by Presentation Rentals a audiovisual equipment rental company in Appleton Wisconsin now renting offers flat panel LCD displays and plasma televisions. Visit them on the web at http://www.presentationrentals.net
Boat - SeaRay Sundancer 240
Port - Slip #2A, Skipper Buds, Oshkosh, WI
Lisa
I recently had a friend ask me for advice about taking his single engine cuddy cabin boat away from the coast about 25 to 30 miles. My recommendation to him was to not do this is such a small single engine craft however he is determined.
Given that talking him out of it was not going to happened and knowing that budget is a consideration I put together my advice for the above described situation. This would also apply to Great Lake crossing as well. I did not want him to become a statistic.
Again, cost is a significant factor so given the budget limitations I offer these suggestions for crossing big water on a small budget.
1 Education & training
2 Inspection
3 Planning
4 Safety equipment
5 Checking the weather
6 Wearing your life jacket
#1) Education / training Cost $0. You can take courses that cost money however they tend to be very economical. Come to think of it, taking the course is good advice for all boaters.
Boating classes are offered by the coast guard auxiliary, the local power squadron, the DNR and you can also take the boating safety course FREE online here http://www.boatingbasicsonline.com/
If you take the final exam there is a fee of $10. Upon passing this course you will get a certificate / wallet card. Many insurance companies give a discount upon providing them documentation that you successfully completed this course.
#2) Get a free vessel safety inspection. Cost $0. Like the above boating class, this should be done for all boaters. You contact the local coast guard auxiliary or the local power squadron and if you are launched they may offer coming to you to perform the inspection. Upon passing this inspection you will get a vessel decal to display on your boat. One place you can go to sigh up for this free inspection is here: http://safetyseal.net/
#3) File a float plan Cost $0. A float plan is a written document that includes a description of your boat and where you plan to go and when you plan to return. You leave this with a responsible person and check in with them as agreed. If you do not check in at the agreed time and can not reach you they contact the authorities and provide the information in the form.
Although there is no required from you must use the coast guard has made one you can download for free. You can download the form for free here http://floatplan.uscgaux.info/download/USCGFloatPlan.pdf
#4) Have the proper safety gear. Above the safety equipment required by law and reviewed in the free vessel safety inspection you will be in a higher risk activity. Because of this I have assembled the below risk.
A) Budget Life Raft - Assuming you are on a tight budget and have no paying passengers you can save money by purchasing a NON-USCG/SOLAS rated one. A 6-preson Valise (soft bag) Revere brand Cost $1,600. It will be 29” x 12” x 15.5”
This life raft is the size of a slightly large duffel bag, 29” x 12” x 15.5” and it has the actual life raft + CO-2 inflation system plus a equipment pack containing:
• 3 Red Hand Flares
• 1 Red Parachute Flare
• Bailer
• Signal Mirror
• Water Tight Flashlight
• Extra Flashlight Batteries
• Floating Knife
• Rescue Throwing Quoit
• Sponges
• Paddles
• Seasick Tablets
• Repair Kit
Using the buddy system, meaning you boat with other boats at all times can also work with or instead of a life raft however you must share the same schedule and be willing to mirror your boating movement.
B) PLB EPIRB GPS. This is a long acronym. It stand for (PLB) Personal Locator Beacon (EPIRB) Emergency Position-Indicating Radio Beacons with internal (GPS) Global Positioning System. This device allows you to alert authorities that you need help and lets them know your location. Read the owners manual and register the product.
Keep this on your lifejacket you are wearing or in your ditch bag. The cost and size has come way down. A personal Locating Beacon or PLB with built in GPS runs about $550-$600. Consider the ACR 406 GPS I/O EPIRB or MCMURCO Fastfind 406 PLB with GPS.
Cost $600.
C) Hand held VHF in addition to the main 25 watt. Cost $100. Use marine band radios instead of commercial cell phones, which have limited coverage and are unreliable when out of sight of land. Get one that is waterproof and can take standard batteries and carry an additional set of batteries. A budget handheld waterproof VHF is the Uniten Atalntis 250 or cobra MR HH90 or Standard Horizon HX270S.
D) Floating ditch bag. A small ACR RepidDitch is $50. 19” x 15” x 7” Keep your safety gear in here and keep it in a spot you can grab easily. I recommend filling the bag with your PLB (unless you are wearing it, which is even better), your handheld VHF and spare batteries, your distress signaling devices (flares) and a first aid kit.
#5) Check the weather forecast early and often. Although you can spend thousands of dollars on sophisticated equipment you can get this information free via the VHF radio on the weather channels. Cost $0. If the weather is not favorable the trip needs to be delayed.
#6) I have saved the most important for last. Wear your life jacket. Cost of not leaving the life jacket stored = $0. Epically if anything goes array be it bad weather or a malfunction. They make life vests like the Type V that are inflatable so you can wear them without movement restrictions. A Type V vest must be worn to be counted as one of your onboard life vests.
So there you have it. The six most important items to reduce the risk to help you safely cross big water on a small budget.
This information was prepared by Presentation Rentals a audiovisual equipment rental company in Appleton Wisconsin now renting offers flat panel LCD displays and plasma televisions. Visit them on the web at http://www.presentationrentals.net
Boat - SeaRay Sundancer 240
Port - Slip #2A, Skipper Buds, Oshkosh, WI
Lisa
Monday, March 12, 2007
Dock Ramp Ediquitte
Boat ramp etiquette:
Departing:
1. Do all your loading of the boat either at home or in the staging area, not as the boat is being put in the water.
a. Check if you have to remove your trailer electrical plug.
2. Once your boat is in the water, move a way from the ramp to the dock so the next person can have the ramp.
3. Have your passengers standing by and ready to board.
4. Depart the area at no wake speed.
When returning:
1. When approaching the landing / dock / ramp areas make sure to come off plane prior to the no wake buoy. Remember your wake will keep going even though you are not. Return at no wake speed.
2. Drop off your driver to pick up the truck and trailer and let your passengers disembark.
3. Back off the dock and wait on the water for the trailer to be placed in the water and load.
4. Pull far enough out of the ramp area so you don't block other loaders and start your check list for the ride home.
a. If you unplugged your trailer light plug remember to put it back in.
Departing:
1. Do all your loading of the boat either at home or in the staging area, not as the boat is being put in the water.
a. Check if you have to remove your trailer electrical plug.
2. Once your boat is in the water, move a way from the ramp to the dock so the next person can have the ramp.
3. Have your passengers standing by and ready to board.
4. Depart the area at no wake speed.
When returning:
1. When approaching the landing / dock / ramp areas make sure to come off plane prior to the no wake buoy. Remember your wake will keep going even though you are not. Return at no wake speed.
2. Drop off your driver to pick up the truck and trailer and let your passengers disembark.
3. Back off the dock and wait on the water for the trailer to be placed in the water and load.
4. Pull far enough out of the ramp area so you don't block other loaders and start your check list for the ride home.
a. If you unplugged your trailer light plug remember to put it back in.
Tuesday, November 07, 2006
UL “ethanol=corrosion” pulls its approval
An Illinois-based branch of Underwriters Laboratories, an organization that tests the safety of thousands of products, pulled its certification off many of the parts inside ethanol fuel pumps.
"Underwriters Laboratories Inc. has suspended authorization to use UL Markings (Listing or Recognition) on components for fuel dispensing devices that specifically reference compatibility with alcohol blended fuels that contain greater than 15% alcohol...."
Note: This would be anything over 15% ethanol like E20, E70 & E85.
UL's consumer affairs manager John Drengenberg said the lab tested one of the suspect pumps a couple months ago, and found signs that components inside were showing corrosiveness. Drengenberg said soft metal parts in meters and hoses specifically showed signs of corrosion.
Sheldon Schall with the Wisconsin state commerce department wrote that insurance companies, "may not cover the installation of ethanol systems" as a result of UL's suspending its authorization.
Source of UL information
Source of Schall writing
The above information was prepared by Presentation Rentals a audiovisual equipment rental company in Appleton Wisconsin now renting offers flat panel LCD displays and plasma televisions. Visit them on the web at http://www.presentationrentals.net
Boat - SeaRay Sundancer 240
Port - Slip #2A, Skipper Buds, Oshkosh, WI
Lisa
"Underwriters Laboratories Inc. has suspended authorization to use UL Markings (Listing or Recognition) on components for fuel dispensing devices that specifically reference compatibility with alcohol blended fuels that contain greater than 15% alcohol...."
Note: This would be anything over 15% ethanol like E20, E70 & E85.
UL's consumer affairs manager John Drengenberg said the lab tested one of the suspect pumps a couple months ago, and found signs that components inside were showing corrosiveness. Drengenberg said soft metal parts in meters and hoses specifically showed signs of corrosion.
Sheldon Schall with the Wisconsin state commerce department wrote that insurance companies, "may not cover the installation of ethanol systems" as a result of UL's suspending its authorization.
Source of UL information
Source of Schall writing
The above information was prepared by Presentation Rentals a audiovisual equipment rental company in Appleton Wisconsin now renting offers flat panel LCD displays and plasma televisions. Visit them on the web at http://www.presentationrentals.net
Boat - SeaRay Sundancer 240
Port - Slip #2A, Skipper Buds, Oshkosh, WI
Lisa
Friday, October 20, 2006
Marina Etiquette Tips
Based on personal experience and observation I have come up with the below list of etiquette tips for getting along at the marina. If you have additional suggestions please add them.
- At areas where multiple boaters need to use the same location like the gas dock, waste pump-out station or launch ramp, do what you need to do then move your boat. If you need to go to the bathroom, talk to another person or purchase some supplies do this after you have vacated these areas.
- Keep dock lines, water hoses, power cords and other such items neatly coiled and placed in such a way that they are not a tripping hazard or mess to other people using the docks.
- If it’s a windy day or tight quarters it’s considered polite to help another boater dock. Normally this means someone that is docking within a couple of slips from where you are. This often requires nothing more then holding a line if tossed to you until a person form the boat is able to tie it off the way they prefer.
- Obey no wake inside any marina with plenty to spare. If you are going to error, error on the side of going too slow.
- If you are tying up along a guest seawall do so in such a manor that your boat does not hog more room then it should. If there is a 60 foot wall and you have a 28 foot boat don’t take your 28 feet out of the middle. Pick one side or the other.
- Along a sea wall use a spring line in each direction so your boat does not move in either direction causing your boat to hit another boat.
- Turn your VHF radio to LOW power so if you make a call when close to other boats you do not damage other boater’s radios.
- Do not use the VHF radio for boat to land based communications unless it is with a licensed shore station like the marina itself. Not only does this clutter the airways its illegal per the FCC. Use a family frequency hand held or cell phone for this purpose.
- Keep music / TV volume at a reasonable level. Sound travels very well over the water. Keep this in mind when talking too.
- Keep your kids off other people’s boats and under reasonable control. Don’t let them grab and play with other boater’s water lines, dock lines, etc.
- Respect quiet hours. This varies marina to marina. Mostly I see this posted as after 11:00PM but varies from marina to marina so check.
- Return dock carts to their proper location when finished using.
This information was prepared by Presentation Rentals a audiovisual equipment rental company in Appleton Wisconsin now renting offers flat panel LCD displays and plasma televisions. Visit them on the web at http://www.presentationrentals.net
Boat - SeaRay Sundancer 240
Port - Slip #2A, Skipper Buds, Oshkosh, WI
Lisa
- At areas where multiple boaters need to use the same location like the gas dock, waste pump-out station or launch ramp, do what you need to do then move your boat. If you need to go to the bathroom, talk to another person or purchase some supplies do this after you have vacated these areas.
- Keep dock lines, water hoses, power cords and other such items neatly coiled and placed in such a way that they are not a tripping hazard or mess to other people using the docks.
- If it’s a windy day or tight quarters it’s considered polite to help another boater dock. Normally this means someone that is docking within a couple of slips from where you are. This often requires nothing more then holding a line if tossed to you until a person form the boat is able to tie it off the way they prefer.
- Obey no wake inside any marina with plenty to spare. If you are going to error, error on the side of going too slow.
- If you are tying up along a guest seawall do so in such a manor that your boat does not hog more room then it should. If there is a 60 foot wall and you have a 28 foot boat don’t take your 28 feet out of the middle. Pick one side or the other.
- Along a sea wall use a spring line in each direction so your boat does not move in either direction causing your boat to hit another boat.
- Turn your VHF radio to LOW power so if you make a call when close to other boats you do not damage other boater’s radios.
- Do not use the VHF radio for boat to land based communications unless it is with a licensed shore station like the marina itself. Not only does this clutter the airways its illegal per the FCC. Use a family frequency hand held or cell phone for this purpose.
- Keep music / TV volume at a reasonable level. Sound travels very well over the water. Keep this in mind when talking too.
- Keep your kids off other people’s boats and under reasonable control. Don’t let them grab and play with other boater’s water lines, dock lines, etc.
- Respect quiet hours. This varies marina to marina. Mostly I see this posted as after 11:00PM but varies from marina to marina so check.
- Return dock carts to their proper location when finished using.
This information was prepared by Presentation Rentals a audiovisual equipment rental company in Appleton Wisconsin now renting offers flat panel LCD displays and plasma televisions. Visit them on the web at http://www.presentationrentals.net
Boat - SeaRay Sundancer 240
Port - Slip #2A, Skipper Buds, Oshkosh, WI
Lisa
Thursday, October 19, 2006
When winterizing your boat do not over fill the fuel tank
With the proliferation of E10 gasoline, a mixture of 90% petroleum and 10% ethanol, there has been a lot of discussion on the issue of phase separation during the winter lay up.
Phase separation is caused when water enters the fuel tank and causes the ethanol to separate from the petroleum and absorb the water. This leaves the tank with a lower layer with a mixture of mostly high octane ethanol and some water and a upper layer of low octane petroleum fuel. Both of these can cause various problem.
The answer that I have read on various message boards is to fill the fuel tank to the very top. The reasoning is by toping off the tank so its full to the very top you will prevent air from being in the tank. By preventing air from being in the tank you will prevent condensation from forming in the tank and this will prevent water from getting into your fuel, thus preventing phase separation.
OK, here is the question:
Your boat has a 200 gallon tank.
The tank is near full.
Its been 30 degrees F for several days so by now your gas is at 30 degrees.
You top off the tank so it’s full. Spring comes. The temperature rises to over 70 degrees for several days.
This causes your fuel temperature to rise to 70 degrees.
How much gasoline will overflow and spill out onto the ground?
Answer: 5.52 gallons will spill out on the ground.
The “coefficient of expansion.” Called the API factor for gasoline is .00069/degreeF Total Temperature change was 40 degrees
200 (gallons) * 40 (temperature change in degrees F) * API factor .00069 = 5.52 gallons
I suggest you do fill your tank but do not top it off. Leave some room for fuel expansion.
Phase separation is caused when water enters the fuel tank and causes the ethanol to separate from the petroleum and absorb the water. This leaves the tank with a lower layer with a mixture of mostly high octane ethanol and some water and a upper layer of low octane petroleum fuel. Both of these can cause various problem.
The answer that I have read on various message boards is to fill the fuel tank to the very top. The reasoning is by toping off the tank so its full to the very top you will prevent air from being in the tank. By preventing air from being in the tank you will prevent condensation from forming in the tank and this will prevent water from getting into your fuel, thus preventing phase separation.
OK, here is the question:
Your boat has a 200 gallon tank.
The tank is near full.
Its been 30 degrees F for several days so by now your gas is at 30 degrees.
You top off the tank so it’s full. Spring comes. The temperature rises to over 70 degrees for several days.
This causes your fuel temperature to rise to 70 degrees.
How much gasoline will overflow and spill out onto the ground?
Answer: 5.52 gallons will spill out on the ground.
The “coefficient of expansion.” Called the API factor for gasoline is .00069/degreeF Total Temperature change was 40 degrees
200 (gallons) * 40 (temperature change in degrees F) * API factor .00069 = 5.52 gallons
I suggest you do fill your tank but do not top it off. Leave some room for fuel expansion.
Tuesday, September 12, 2006
Boating on the river at night
Boating on the river during the night has an increased risk of danger. Its also one of my favorite activities. Our family often boats along the Wisconsin Fox and Wolf River at night. Boating on the river at night can become an enjoyable part of your recreational boating experience like it has to our family. Taking proper precaution helps lower the risk.
In the darkness your depth perception and ability to see objects is reduced. Also small objects like buoys look different and are difficult to see.
There are six critical precautions you need to take to reduce the danger of boating on the river during the night:
#1) Know the area
I will not boat at night along a river I do not know very well. Knowing where the turns, shoals, buoys, no wake zones, islands, marshes, stumps, rocks, tree tops, bridges, piers and other obstacles are located is critical for night boating along the river.
#2) Go slow
When boating along the river at night I slightly lower my trim tabs as well as fully lower the outdrive so I can hold the boat on plane at 20 MPH / 17 knots. Lowering your speed gives you more time to react.
#3) Use all your senses
If you have a bimini or camper top I recommend you remove the front center piece of isinglass. As you make way the side and rear panel pieces literally will bubble outwards slightly and you will be in an area of higher air pressure. With modest speed you will have very little wind and wind noise. It’s amazing how well you will be able to hear another boat motor or other moderate noises. Maintain an alert lookout with your eyes and your ears as you stand directly behind this open section of your isinglass. In our boat I stand in the foot well behind the cabin door and steer with my right hand.
#4) Understanding and protecting your natural night vision
The eyes iris has the ability to shrink during bright times as occurs in the daytime and expand in the dark. The process is relatively quick and occurs in a few minutes.
In addition to the iris expanding the eye goes through a chemical change over a longer period of time, taking at least an hour. The eye’s precursor chemicals are transformed by light. The greater the precursor chemicals the more sensitive your vision becomes to light.
This chemical change needs to be protected since even a brief burst of direct light will break down the increased level of precursor chemicals and require the process to start over, reducing your night vision for upwards of an hour.
The buildup of precursor chemicals occurs on the sides of your eye not directly in the middle of your vision. Because of this you can see an object in the dark better if you are not looking directly at it. This is called averted vision.
To take advantage of this increased night visions sweep your eyes side to side. The eye is better at picking up dim objects in motion. This sweeping motion also helps you spot non-moving objects like buoys.
Once you get your night vision and get some practice using it you need to protect it by avoiding light. Keep all dash instruments as dim as possible, including electronics and keep all cockpit lighting off.
Spotlights are not headlights.
If you are in a situation where you need to use a spotlight don’t shine another boater, thus ruining their night vision. This not only makes sense but it’s the law. If it’s obvious another boater does not see me I have briefly flashed the spotlight to get the other boaters attention however I would never do this so the light or lights reflection goes into the other boaters eyes. Do not run with your spotlight on. The spotlight is for docking or for reading a number off a buoy for navigation or other reasons that are all brief in nature. A spotlight is not a headlight like in a car. Actually, with a GPS / chart plotter along a river that you are familiar with you should not need a spotlight until you reach your final destination and need to secure your lines to the dock. Before that it just ruins your night vision.
#5) Use your GPS / Chart plotter
Mark all no-wake zones, the location of all buoys and other danger items like shoals, stumps, bridges and objects on your chart plotter during the day as you make your way up and down the river. I also set the Chart plotter to give a ‘beep’ at every waypoint along the route then make the chart so all buoy locations are a route waypoint. I set my GPS / chart plotter to the lowest level of brightness and turn it so I can see the screen as I am standing in the middle of the boat’s foot well leading to the cabin behind the removed center piece of isinglass so I can look down at it briefly as we make way. This helps keep you in the middle of the river in very dark areas where there are no lights or trees on shore. The Wolf River south of Orihula and north of Lake Poygan is such an area.
#6) Educate your passengers
Make sure all passengers understand your need to keep your attention to what you are doing. They need to not interrupt you and if they go below into the cabin they need to close the door before they turn on lights. Returning they need to turn the lights off before they open the door. If offered I will always accept a spotter to help keep a watchful eye for floating objects, unlit small boats, unlit buoys or anything else.
Just an additional tip on night boating. Make sure your navigational lights are in good working order and carry spare bulbs. I take the extra precaution of keeping two navigation battery powered flashlights onboard, one with the red/green reflector plus mounting clamp and the other with a white all round reflector.
Night boating requires all the above precautions for safety. If you are not rested and are struggling to keep awake you are not alert enough for night boating. Alcohol only adds to your reaction time and increases the risks.
Learning to boat at night increases your enjoyment and extends the boating options at your disposal.
The above information was prepared by Presentation Rentals a audiovisual equipment rental company in Appleton Wisconsin that offers LCD projector PA public address sound system and accessories. Visit them on the web at http://www.presentationrentals.net
Boat - SeaRay Sundancer 240
Port - Slip #2A, Skipper Buds, Oshkosh, WI
Lisa
In the darkness your depth perception and ability to see objects is reduced. Also small objects like buoys look different and are difficult to see.
There are six critical precautions you need to take to reduce the danger of boating on the river during the night:
#1) Know the area
I will not boat at night along a river I do not know very well. Knowing where the turns, shoals, buoys, no wake zones, islands, marshes, stumps, rocks, tree tops, bridges, piers and other obstacles are located is critical for night boating along the river.
#2) Go slow
When boating along the river at night I slightly lower my trim tabs as well as fully lower the outdrive so I can hold the boat on plane at 20 MPH / 17 knots. Lowering your speed gives you more time to react.
#3) Use all your senses
If you have a bimini or camper top I recommend you remove the front center piece of isinglass. As you make way the side and rear panel pieces literally will bubble outwards slightly and you will be in an area of higher air pressure. With modest speed you will have very little wind and wind noise. It’s amazing how well you will be able to hear another boat motor or other moderate noises. Maintain an alert lookout with your eyes and your ears as you stand directly behind this open section of your isinglass. In our boat I stand in the foot well behind the cabin door and steer with my right hand.
#4) Understanding and protecting your natural night vision
The eyes iris has the ability to shrink during bright times as occurs in the daytime and expand in the dark. The process is relatively quick and occurs in a few minutes.
In addition to the iris expanding the eye goes through a chemical change over a longer period of time, taking at least an hour. The eye’s precursor chemicals are transformed by light. The greater the precursor chemicals the more sensitive your vision becomes to light.
This chemical change needs to be protected since even a brief burst of direct light will break down the increased level of precursor chemicals and require the process to start over, reducing your night vision for upwards of an hour.
The buildup of precursor chemicals occurs on the sides of your eye not directly in the middle of your vision. Because of this you can see an object in the dark better if you are not looking directly at it. This is called averted vision.
To take advantage of this increased night visions sweep your eyes side to side. The eye is better at picking up dim objects in motion. This sweeping motion also helps you spot non-moving objects like buoys.
Once you get your night vision and get some practice using it you need to protect it by avoiding light. Keep all dash instruments as dim as possible, including electronics and keep all cockpit lighting off.
Spotlights are not headlights.
If you are in a situation where you need to use a spotlight don’t shine another boater, thus ruining their night vision. This not only makes sense but it’s the law. If it’s obvious another boater does not see me I have briefly flashed the spotlight to get the other boaters attention however I would never do this so the light or lights reflection goes into the other boaters eyes. Do not run with your spotlight on. The spotlight is for docking or for reading a number off a buoy for navigation or other reasons that are all brief in nature. A spotlight is not a headlight like in a car. Actually, with a GPS / chart plotter along a river that you are familiar with you should not need a spotlight until you reach your final destination and need to secure your lines to the dock. Before that it just ruins your night vision.
#5) Use your GPS / Chart plotter
Mark all no-wake zones, the location of all buoys and other danger items like shoals, stumps, bridges and objects on your chart plotter during the day as you make your way up and down the river. I also set the Chart plotter to give a ‘beep’ at every waypoint along the route then make the chart so all buoy locations are a route waypoint. I set my GPS / chart plotter to the lowest level of brightness and turn it so I can see the screen as I am standing in the middle of the boat’s foot well leading to the cabin behind the removed center piece of isinglass so I can look down at it briefly as we make way. This helps keep you in the middle of the river in very dark areas where there are no lights or trees on shore. The Wolf River south of Orihula and north of Lake Poygan is such an area.
#6) Educate your passengers
Make sure all passengers understand your need to keep your attention to what you are doing. They need to not interrupt you and if they go below into the cabin they need to close the door before they turn on lights. Returning they need to turn the lights off before they open the door. If offered I will always accept a spotter to help keep a watchful eye for floating objects, unlit small boats, unlit buoys or anything else.
Just an additional tip on night boating. Make sure your navigational lights are in good working order and carry spare bulbs. I take the extra precaution of keeping two navigation battery powered flashlights onboard, one with the red/green reflector plus mounting clamp and the other with a white all round reflector.
Night boating requires all the above precautions for safety. If you are not rested and are struggling to keep awake you are not alert enough for night boating. Alcohol only adds to your reaction time and increases the risks.
Learning to boat at night increases your enjoyment and extends the boating options at your disposal.
The above information was prepared by Presentation Rentals a audiovisual equipment rental company in Appleton Wisconsin that offers LCD projector PA public address sound system and accessories. Visit them on the web at http://www.presentationrentals.net
Boat - SeaRay Sundancer 240
Port - Slip #2A, Skipper Buds, Oshkosh, WI
Lisa
Monday, August 14, 2006
Dealing with Lake Winnebago in rough chop
Lake Winnebago has a unique chop when the winds pick up.
Michigan has waves that are much larger however they have more distance between the peak and trough of each wave. This gives the boat time to ride up and down the waves.
Smaller instate lakes can get rough to the point where the peak of the wave falls over causing a white area on the top or cap of the wave. These whitecaps are close together. The length of the typical cruiser is such that the wave is shorter then the length of the boat.
Then you have Lake Winnebago. When it gets rough the hull of the boat will come over the peak of the wave then in the air the boats hull falls until it reaches the trough of the wave. The hull meeting the trough is done with a bang and you know you hit.
This pounding is hard on the boat and uncomfortable for the passengers.
If you find yourself in a similar situation try lowering the outdrive then pres one trim tab in the ‘bow down’ method until you get a reasonable amount of pitch to one side (don’t go to the maximum) then press the other trim tab to level or balance the boat. Then throttle back a bit.
This should drive your bow hard down.
Driving your bow hard down allows you to lower your speed to 20 or 21 MPH and still not fall off plane. Also your bow gets pushed down hard on the crest of the waves so you don’t get that fast freefall followed by that hard bang as your hull falls through the air and into the hole or trough between the waves.
Your boat will still go up and down but the hard bang is replaced by more of a whoosh due to the reduction or elimination of the freefalling hull and reduced velocity when the hull meets the trough of the wave.
Your speed will vary. As you cross larger waves your speed will drop then rise as you cross areas with smaller waves.
You may need to make fine throttle adjustments until you find a balance between going too fast, causing the banging hull and going to slow causing you to loose your plane. Your goal is to hold plane at the slowest possible speed and keep the bow hard down into the waves.
Once I get the boat set I do not touch the throttle. We still fall into the troughs but it’s much more gentle.
Give this a try and let us know your results.
The above information was prepared by Lisa at Presentation Rentals a audiovisual equipment rental company in Appleton Wisconsin that offers LCD projector PA public address sound system and accessories. Visit them on the web at http://www.presentationrentals.net
Boat - SeaRay Sundancer 240
Port - Slip #2A, Skipper Buds, Oshkosh, WI
Lisa
Michigan has waves that are much larger however they have more distance between the peak and trough of each wave. This gives the boat time to ride up and down the waves.
Smaller instate lakes can get rough to the point where the peak of the wave falls over causing a white area on the top or cap of the wave. These whitecaps are close together. The length of the typical cruiser is such that the wave is shorter then the length of the boat.
Then you have Lake Winnebago. When it gets rough the hull of the boat will come over the peak of the wave then in the air the boats hull falls until it reaches the trough of the wave. The hull meeting the trough is done with a bang and you know you hit.
This pounding is hard on the boat and uncomfortable for the passengers.
If you find yourself in a similar situation try lowering the outdrive then pres one trim tab in the ‘bow down’ method until you get a reasonable amount of pitch to one side (don’t go to the maximum) then press the other trim tab to level or balance the boat. Then throttle back a bit.
This should drive your bow hard down.
Driving your bow hard down allows you to lower your speed to 20 or 21 MPH and still not fall off plane. Also your bow gets pushed down hard on the crest of the waves so you don’t get that fast freefall followed by that hard bang as your hull falls through the air and into the hole or trough between the waves.
Your boat will still go up and down but the hard bang is replaced by more of a whoosh due to the reduction or elimination of the freefalling hull and reduced velocity when the hull meets the trough of the wave.
Your speed will vary. As you cross larger waves your speed will drop then rise as you cross areas with smaller waves.
You may need to make fine throttle adjustments until you find a balance between going too fast, causing the banging hull and going to slow causing you to loose your plane. Your goal is to hold plane at the slowest possible speed and keep the bow hard down into the waves.
Once I get the boat set I do not touch the throttle. We still fall into the troughs but it’s much more gentle.
Give this a try and let us know your results.
The above information was prepared by Lisa at Presentation Rentals a audiovisual equipment rental company in Appleton Wisconsin that offers LCD projector PA public address sound system and accessories. Visit them on the web at http://www.presentationrentals.net
Boat - SeaRay Sundancer 240
Port - Slip #2A, Skipper Buds, Oshkosh, WI
Lisa
Monday, July 17, 2006
Wego Kite Tubes recall notice
July 13, 2006
Release # 06-210
Sportsstuff Wego Kite Tubes Withdrawn from Market after Reports of Deaths and Injuries
WASHINGTON, D.C. – In cooperation with the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), Sportsstuff, Inc., of Omaha, Nebraska is voluntarily recalling about 19,000 Wego Kite Tubes.
CPSC staff is aware of 39 injury incidents with 29 of those resulting in medical treatment. Those injuries include a broken neck, punctured lung, chest and back injuries and facial injuries. Sportsstuff has received reports of two deaths in the United States and a variety of serious injuries. Sportsstuff has been unable to determine the cause of the incidents. Nevertheless, the company has withdrawn the kite tube from the market and is undertaking this voluntary recall out of an abundance of caution.
The Sportsstuff Wego Kite Tube is a 10-foot-wide, circular, yellow inflatable watercraft
designed to be towed behind a power boat. A rider in the tube becomes airborne by pulling on handles attached to the floor of the tube. Model 53-5000 is printed on the tube near the product valve. The floor of the tube has black caution warning stripes. The cover for the product bears a skull and crossbones and the statement “Never Kite higher than you are willing to fall.” The tubes were imported and sold through marine distributors, mail order catalogs, and various retailers from approximately October 1, 2005 to July 11, 2006 for about $500 to $600.
Consumers should immediately stop using the kite tubes and contact Sportsstuff at (866)
831-5524 between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. CST Monday through Friday to learn how to obtain free replacement products. Consumers can also visit the firm’s Web site at ww.sportsstuff.com formore information.
The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission is charged with protecting the public from unreasonable risks of serious injury or death from more than 15,000 types of consumer products under the agency’s jurisdiction. Deaths, injuries and property damage from consumer product incidents cost the nation more than $700 billion annually. The CPSC is committed to protecting consumers and families from products that pose a fire, electrical, chemical, or mechanical hazard. The CPSC’s work to ensure the safety of consumer products - such as toys, cribs, power tools, cigarette lighters, and household chemicals – contributed significantly to the 30 percent decline in the rate of deaths and injuries associated with consumer products over the past 30 years.
To report a dangerous product or a product-related injury, call CPSC’s hotline at (800) 638-2772 or visit CPSC’s Web site at www.cpsc.gov/talk.html Consumers can obtain this release and recall information at CPSC’s Web site at www.cpsc.gov .
####
Release # 06-210
Sportsstuff Wego Kite Tubes Withdrawn from Market after Reports of Deaths and Injuries
WASHINGTON, D.C. – In cooperation with the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), Sportsstuff, Inc., of Omaha, Nebraska is voluntarily recalling about 19,000 Wego Kite Tubes.
CPSC staff is aware of 39 injury incidents with 29 of those resulting in medical treatment. Those injuries include a broken neck, punctured lung, chest and back injuries and facial injuries. Sportsstuff has received reports of two deaths in the United States and a variety of serious injuries. Sportsstuff has been unable to determine the cause of the incidents. Nevertheless, the company has withdrawn the kite tube from the market and is undertaking this voluntary recall out of an abundance of caution.
The Sportsstuff Wego Kite Tube is a 10-foot-wide, circular, yellow inflatable watercraft
designed to be towed behind a power boat. A rider in the tube becomes airborne by pulling on handles attached to the floor of the tube. Model 53-5000 is printed on the tube near the product valve. The floor of the tube has black caution warning stripes. The cover for the product bears a skull and crossbones and the statement “Never Kite higher than you are willing to fall.” The tubes were imported and sold through marine distributors, mail order catalogs, and various retailers from approximately October 1, 2005 to July 11, 2006 for about $500 to $600.
Consumers should immediately stop using the kite tubes and contact Sportsstuff at (866)
831-5524 between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. CST Monday through Friday to learn how to obtain free replacement products. Consumers can also visit the firm’s Web site at ww.sportsstuff.com formore information.
The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission is charged with protecting the public from unreasonable risks of serious injury or death from more than 15,000 types of consumer products under the agency’s jurisdiction. Deaths, injuries and property damage from consumer product incidents cost the nation more than $700 billion annually. The CPSC is committed to protecting consumers and families from products that pose a fire, electrical, chemical, or mechanical hazard. The CPSC’s work to ensure the safety of consumer products - such as toys, cribs, power tools, cigarette lighters, and household chemicals – contributed significantly to the 30 percent decline in the rate of deaths and injuries associated with consumer products over the past 30 years.
To report a dangerous product or a product-related injury, call CPSC’s hotline at (800) 638-2772 or visit CPSC’s Web site at www.cpsc.gov/talk.html Consumers can obtain this release and recall information at CPSC’s Web site at www.cpsc.gov .
####
Wednesday, May 10, 2006
New boaters please read this
Congratulations on joining us in becoming a boater.
I have two recommendations:
#1) Take a boaters safety course. They are offered by the coast guard auxiliary, the local power squadron, the DNR and you can also take them online here http://www.boatingbasicsonline.com/
Upon passing this course you will get a certificate / wallet card. Many insurance companies give a discount upon providing them documentation that you successfully completed this course.
#2) I also recommend a FREE vessel safety check. You contact the local coast guard auxiliary or the local power squadron and if you are launched they may offer coming to you to perform the inspection. Upon passing this inspection you will get a vessel decal to display on your boat. One place you can go to sigh up for this free inspection is here: http://safetyseal.net/
I have two recommendations:
#1) Take a boaters safety course. They are offered by the coast guard auxiliary, the local power squadron, the DNR and you can also take them online here http://www.boatingbasicsonline.com/
Upon passing this course you will get a certificate / wallet card. Many insurance companies give a discount upon providing them documentation that you successfully completed this course.
#2) I also recommend a FREE vessel safety check. You contact the local coast guard auxiliary or the local power squadron and if you are launched they may offer coming to you to perform the inspection. Upon passing this inspection you will get a vessel decal to display on your boat. One place you can go to sigh up for this free inspection is here: http://safetyseal.net/
Tuesday, April 04, 2006
Is electrolysis (stray voltage) eating away at your outdrive?
Is electrolysis (stray voltage) eating away at your outdrive?
So this person told you that they heard of a guy who’s outdrive was ruined from stray voltage corrosion and the offending boat was another boat in the marina.
Stories like this are great at putting fear in us boaters. It has all the making of a good horror film. You can’t see the culprit, you can’t detect it and you fear your boat may be under attack right now. What can you do?
What is electrolysis?
Electrolysis is a reaction between metal and electrical current. Electrolysis occurs when electrical current comes in contact with water near the external metallic parts of your boat.
This electrical current normally comes from an improperly grounded electrical devices or an electrical device that has suffered a short or fault and now has the live or hot side of the electricity in contact with the water.
Electrolysis can cause corrosion much faster then normal galvanic corrosion.
The most expensive external metallic component of your boat is the outdrive often called “the lower unit.” As electrons flow from negative to positive or from your outdrive (the negative source) to the leak (the positive source) the electrons literally carry away the metal of your boat bit by bit.
Most insurance companies do not cover claims against marine electrolysis corrosion. Because of a debate over the very word “electrolysis” the insurance companies do not need to put this exclusion in their policies.
Here is the good news.
In this part of the country we have FRESH water not salt water. Electricity travels through salt water much easier then fresh water. Distance in fresh water maters greatly. 120 volts (a measurement of electrical pressure) in fresh water means the electricity can only travel a short distance to reach your outdrive. Stories of one boat on one pier causing electrolysis on a boat on a different pier are possible but highly unlikely in fresh water. Your own boat and the boats immediately adjacent to your slip or other electrical sources close to your slip are the sources of concern.
What can you do?
Before you hire an electrician and spend money here is how you can tell if you have a problem. This is a test that any boater that keeps their boat in a slip can and should do. Inspect your anodes on your outdrive on a regular basis. These are the silver colored metallic parts on your outdrive. If you have a Mercury Alpha I you have 6 anodes. 5 are visible and 1 is behind the propeller.
Even if you have stray current causing dramatically accelerated corrosion your anodes will function and sacrifice themselves first.
Put on a full set of new magnesium anodes. If they are 50% gone in 6 months to a year this is considered normal wear. With the short season of Wisconsin we can normally go 1 full season in a wet slip then change the anodes during the winter maintenance schedule. If you see uneven wear, say one anode on one trim shaft has had much less mass then the other you need to remove this larger anode and sand the surface area between the anode and the metal the anode touches. The anode is larger because it’s not making good contact and is not doing its job.
Anode mass loss (wear) may be less if you keep your lower unit in the full down position when you leave the boat, if you keep your boat in the water for a shorter season, if you have a very well sealed and painted outdrive or if you do not have a bottom painted boat.
Anode mass loss may be more if you have fresh bottom paint (containes copper) or have an stainless steel propeller. This is becaus stailess steel is a very nobel or low croding metal causing a increased rate of galvanic conversion to the anodes. Dual stainless steel propellers accelerate this further.
If you are seeing signs of flaking paint or corrosion on your outdrive this is a indication that someone before you (or possibly you but lets blame someone else, its more fun) painted over improperly prepared or even a corroded outdrive. You need to sand, seal, prime and paint this area. Left untreated, this will cause your anodes to dissolve much faster then normal.
If the tip of your skeg (lowest fin on the outdrive) is bare aluminum from running thru shallow areas then you need to sand, seal, prime and paint this area. Left untreated, this also will cause your anodes to dissolve much faster then normal. Also, do you have shore power? If yes, you need a galvanic isolator. With out a galvanic isolator you may be causing your own electrolysis problem.
Due to all the metallic items on a boat all boats have an electrical potential. Electrolysis is stray current escaping from the system. When this happens it will reduce the mass of the anodes at a very fast rate leaving the anode metal looking bright and shiny.
Therefore:
Shiny eroded anodes = electrolysis. This is stray voltage induced corrosion and needs to be fixed.
Dull eroded zincs = galvanism. This is dissimilar metal corrosion and will occur naturally on boats kept in a wet slip at a pace of the anode loosing about half its mass after six months. Faster then this and you need to repaint your outdive.
Lets review:
- You start the season with new anodes and they are the proper anodes for your type of water (fresh water = magnesium, salt water = zinc)
- Your outdive is properly sealed and painted. The paint looks good and you see no signs of the paint flaking or corrosion.
- If you have shore power you have a galvanic isolator.
What should you do if you think you have a electrolysis (stray voltage) issue?
If and only if all the above are true yet your anodes are still wearing at a accelerated rate meaning they are reduced to half their original mass in less then 6 months you should hire an marine electrician to check for a possible electrolysis (stray voltage) issue.
What will they do? I don’t want anyone here to do this. Leave this to a trained professional marine electrician.
Here is what they will do. They will take a voltage meter and connect one end to the ground of your shore power. They will then dip the other lead in the water and determine if the voltage is high enough to be considered stray voltage.
The electrician will check if at least 1/2 volts DC or direct current exists.
An amount of DC voltage is normal and will be absorbed with normal anode wear. A boat that has a fresh coat of copper based bottom paint can generate ¼ to 1/3 volt with no connection to shore power and the battery removed.
If you have ¼ to 1/3 volts DC you do not have a problem. If you have ½ volts DC you likely have a problem. If you get to 1 volt DC you have a significant problem. 10 volts and your anodes will be reduced in mass and ineffective in as little as 2 weeks.
If the electrician finds at least ½ volt present the electrician will have one person keep an eye on the meter as another person unplugs your boat. If the meter drops the problem is from your own boat. They will repeat this unplugging your battery cables. In fresh water if there is a stray voltage problem this is the most typical case.
If after unplugging your boat the voltage remains they next will, with the permission of the marina, unplug one boat then the next then anything else in the general area. When something is unplugged and the voltage meter drops the electrical leak source has been found.
Finally, if the electrician determines your slip in the marina is hot, meaning it contains stray voltage and the source is not from your boat but you just can not find or stop the source you need to move to another slip or marina.
The above information was prepared by Presentation Rentals a audiovisual equipment rental company in Appleton Wisconsin that offers LCD projector PA public address sound system and accessories. Visit them on the web at http://www.presentationrentals.net
Boat - SeaRay Sundancer 240
Port - Slip #2A, Skipper Buds, Oshkosh, WI
Lisa
So this person told you that they heard of a guy who’s outdrive was ruined from stray voltage corrosion and the offending boat was another boat in the marina.
Stories like this are great at putting fear in us boaters. It has all the making of a good horror film. You can’t see the culprit, you can’t detect it and you fear your boat may be under attack right now. What can you do?
What is electrolysis?
Electrolysis is a reaction between metal and electrical current. Electrolysis occurs when electrical current comes in contact with water near the external metallic parts of your boat.
This electrical current normally comes from an improperly grounded electrical devices or an electrical device that has suffered a short or fault and now has the live or hot side of the electricity in contact with the water.
Electrolysis can cause corrosion much faster then normal galvanic corrosion.
The most expensive external metallic component of your boat is the outdrive often called “the lower unit.” As electrons flow from negative to positive or from your outdrive (the negative source) to the leak (the positive source) the electrons literally carry away the metal of your boat bit by bit.
Most insurance companies do not cover claims against marine electrolysis corrosion. Because of a debate over the very word “electrolysis” the insurance companies do not need to put this exclusion in their policies.
Here is the good news.
In this part of the country we have FRESH water not salt water. Electricity travels through salt water much easier then fresh water. Distance in fresh water maters greatly. 120 volts (a measurement of electrical pressure) in fresh water means the electricity can only travel a short distance to reach your outdrive. Stories of one boat on one pier causing electrolysis on a boat on a different pier are possible but highly unlikely in fresh water. Your own boat and the boats immediately adjacent to your slip or other electrical sources close to your slip are the sources of concern.
What can you do?
Before you hire an electrician and spend money here is how you can tell if you have a problem. This is a test that any boater that keeps their boat in a slip can and should do. Inspect your anodes on your outdrive on a regular basis. These are the silver colored metallic parts on your outdrive. If you have a Mercury Alpha I you have 6 anodes. 5 are visible and 1 is behind the propeller.
Even if you have stray current causing dramatically accelerated corrosion your anodes will function and sacrifice themselves first.
Put on a full set of new magnesium anodes. If they are 50% gone in 6 months to a year this is considered normal wear. With the short season of Wisconsin we can normally go 1 full season in a wet slip then change the anodes during the winter maintenance schedule. If you see uneven wear, say one anode on one trim shaft has had much less mass then the other you need to remove this larger anode and sand the surface area between the anode and the metal the anode touches. The anode is larger because it’s not making good contact and is not doing its job.
Anode mass loss (wear) may be less if you keep your lower unit in the full down position when you leave the boat, if you keep your boat in the water for a shorter season, if you have a very well sealed and painted outdrive or if you do not have a bottom painted boat.
Anode mass loss may be more if you have fresh bottom paint (containes copper) or have an stainless steel propeller. This is becaus stailess steel is a very nobel or low croding metal causing a increased rate of galvanic conversion to the anodes. Dual stainless steel propellers accelerate this further.
If you are seeing signs of flaking paint or corrosion on your outdrive this is a indication that someone before you (or possibly you but lets blame someone else, its more fun) painted over improperly prepared or even a corroded outdrive. You need to sand, seal, prime and paint this area. Left untreated, this will cause your anodes to dissolve much faster then normal.
If the tip of your skeg (lowest fin on the outdrive) is bare aluminum from running thru shallow areas then you need to sand, seal, prime and paint this area. Left untreated, this also will cause your anodes to dissolve much faster then normal. Also, do you have shore power? If yes, you need a galvanic isolator. With out a galvanic isolator you may be causing your own electrolysis problem.
Due to all the metallic items on a boat all boats have an electrical potential. Electrolysis is stray current escaping from the system. When this happens it will reduce the mass of the anodes at a very fast rate leaving the anode metal looking bright and shiny.
Therefore:
Shiny eroded anodes = electrolysis. This is stray voltage induced corrosion and needs to be fixed.
Dull eroded zincs = galvanism. This is dissimilar metal corrosion and will occur naturally on boats kept in a wet slip at a pace of the anode loosing about half its mass after six months. Faster then this and you need to repaint your outdive.
Lets review:
- You start the season with new anodes and they are the proper anodes for your type of water (fresh water = magnesium, salt water = zinc)
- Your outdive is properly sealed and painted. The paint looks good and you see no signs of the paint flaking or corrosion.
- If you have shore power you have a galvanic isolator.
What should you do if you think you have a electrolysis (stray voltage) issue?
If and only if all the above are true yet your anodes are still wearing at a accelerated rate meaning they are reduced to half their original mass in less then 6 months you should hire an marine electrician to check for a possible electrolysis (stray voltage) issue.
What will they do? I don’t want anyone here to do this. Leave this to a trained professional marine electrician.
Here is what they will do. They will take a voltage meter and connect one end to the ground of your shore power. They will then dip the other lead in the water and determine if the voltage is high enough to be considered stray voltage.
The electrician will check if at least 1/2 volts DC or direct current exists.
An amount of DC voltage is normal and will be absorbed with normal anode wear. A boat that has a fresh coat of copper based bottom paint can generate ¼ to 1/3 volt with no connection to shore power and the battery removed.
If you have ¼ to 1/3 volts DC you do not have a problem. If you have ½ volts DC you likely have a problem. If you get to 1 volt DC you have a significant problem. 10 volts and your anodes will be reduced in mass and ineffective in as little as 2 weeks.
If the electrician finds at least ½ volt present the electrician will have one person keep an eye on the meter as another person unplugs your boat. If the meter drops the problem is from your own boat. They will repeat this unplugging your battery cables. In fresh water if there is a stray voltage problem this is the most typical case.
If after unplugging your boat the voltage remains they next will, with the permission of the marina, unplug one boat then the next then anything else in the general area. When something is unplugged and the voltage meter drops the electrical leak source has been found.
Finally, if the electrician determines your slip in the marina is hot, meaning it contains stray voltage and the source is not from your boat but you just can not find or stop the source you need to move to another slip or marina.
The above information was prepared by Presentation Rentals a audiovisual equipment rental company in Appleton Wisconsin that offers LCD projector PA public address sound system and accessories. Visit them on the web at http://www.presentationrentals.net
Boat - SeaRay Sundancer 240
Port - Slip #2A, Skipper Buds, Oshkosh, WI
Lisa
Thursday, February 16, 2006
Do you have a pre-2004 Merc Bravo III? Slip your boat? READ THIS
If you are a “In and out” boater you don’t need to read this.
It’s no secret; the Mercury Bravo III has a corrosion issue. Lots to read on the web about this.
At issue is all that stainless steel, two props worth and the low sacrificial nature of stainless steel.
It’s no secret; the Mercury Bravo III has a corrosion issue. Lots to read on the web about this.
At issue is all that stainless steel, two props worth and the low sacrificial nature of stainless steel.
Mercury has come out with various things to help like larger, oversized magnesium anodes for us in fresh water, the MerCathode® system and recommending regular inspection and paint touch up products. If you use shore power, you should have an approved galvanic isolator installed to protect against stray current corrosion (electrolysis) from your dock, from your boat's accessories or from other nearby boats.
A new corrosion defense is just out. Likely your dealer or maintenance person does not even know about it yet.
If you have a pre-2004 Mercury Bravo III and slip your boat – spend $70 and get this part. Bravo III Propeller Nut with Magnesium Anode. After the first year, just buy a new anode for about $20.
If your unit is newer you already have it. Until now if it was older you could not add this since you can't drill and tap a thread in the drive shaft...the shaft is hardened and high risk of breaking in trying to do so.
Now you don’t have to drill a hole in your shaft.
Best cost source that I can find:
http://www.boatzincs.com/MERProp-Nut-D-mag.html
Buy it here:
http://www.boatzincs.com/mercruiser-magnesium.html
The official Mercury part number is Merc 809666A02
Mercruiser list price is $159.85.
The above product is the same.
Most of Mercruiser knows nothing about this yet, including their customer service department. It’s only the engineering dept and a few people in distribution that have put this together.
If you want the ‘official’ mercury labeled box, you can get it from Boatfix.com for the best price I could find.
Even they don’t have the part online yet, I’m sure they will soon. How to get it from them is go to http://www.boatfix.com/orderblank.asp and list it as a Prop Anode Kit for a Mercury Bravo III pre 2004. $91.13
Again, most local shops will say this thing does not exist. Give it a year and these same people will be trying to sell you one.
Hope this helps you guys keep your corrosion in check.
Tuesday, January 03, 2006
Boaters Safety course – online
Boaters Safety course – online
We all want to have a great yet safe time in our boating hobby, right? Many of us even intend to take a boaters safety course but with jobs, family and other commitments it’s hard to find the time. If you take the next step and look into taking a class you may find the schedule just does not fit with your schedule.
If this sounds like you then online boater’s safety is the answer.
The web address is http://www.boatingbasicsonline.com/
The course is FREE ($10 if you take the final online exam), its available 24 hours a day and covers a broad range of topics including state and federal laws and a general boating information.
Having taken this course last summer I recommend it to anyone who has not taken the traditional boaters safety class.
The course is divided into ten chapters. They take about an hour each. Each chapter has a review quiz.
The ten chapters cover topics like terminology, boat types, propulsion, registering and numbering, required and recommended equipment, trailering, maintenance, fueling, navigation rules, aids to navigation, line handling, docking, anchoring, maneuvering, water sports, personal watercraft, accidents, repairs, locks, damns, security and sailing.
The online course even adds state specific laws when applicable.
After completing the ten chapters and review quizzes you can also take a free practice exam. If you decide to take the official certified exam there is a $10 charge. If you do this and pass, send a copy of your certificate to your insurance carrier for your boat. I did this with our insurance carrier and they sent me a check for the difference between my old and new premium and it was more the cost of the exam.
The course is approved by the National Association of State Boating Law Administrators (NASBLA) and recognized as acceptable to the United States Coast Guard Recreational Boating Program.
Again, the web address for this course is http://www.boatingbasicsonline.com/
Boat - SeaRay Sundancer 240
Port - Slip #309, Pioneer Marina, Oshkosh, WI
Lisa
We all want to have a great yet safe time in our boating hobby, right? Many of us even intend to take a boaters safety course but with jobs, family and other commitments it’s hard to find the time. If you take the next step and look into taking a class you may find the schedule just does not fit with your schedule.
If this sounds like you then online boater’s safety is the answer.
The web address is http://www.boatingbasicsonline.com/
The course is FREE ($10 if you take the final online exam), its available 24 hours a day and covers a broad range of topics including state and federal laws and a general boating information.
Having taken this course last summer I recommend it to anyone who has not taken the traditional boaters safety class.
The course is divided into ten chapters. They take about an hour each. Each chapter has a review quiz.
The ten chapters cover topics like terminology, boat types, propulsion, registering and numbering, required and recommended equipment, trailering, maintenance, fueling, navigation rules, aids to navigation, line handling, docking, anchoring, maneuvering, water sports, personal watercraft, accidents, repairs, locks, damns, security and sailing.
The online course even adds state specific laws when applicable.
After completing the ten chapters and review quizzes you can also take a free practice exam. If you decide to take the official certified exam there is a $10 charge. If you do this and pass, send a copy of your certificate to your insurance carrier for your boat. I did this with our insurance carrier and they sent me a check for the difference between my old and new premium and it was more the cost of the exam.
The course is approved by the National Association of State Boating Law Administrators (NASBLA) and recognized as acceptable to the United States Coast Guard Recreational Boating Program.
Again, the web address for this course is http://www.boatingbasicsonline.com/
Boat - SeaRay Sundancer 240
Port - Slip #309, Pioneer Marina, Oshkosh, WI
Lisa
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
